The Winepress A short story by Josef Essberger "You don't have to be French to enjoy a decent red wine," Charles Jousselin de Gruse used to tell his foreign guests whenever he entertained them in Paris. "But you do have to be French to recognize one," he would add with a laugh. After a lifetime in the French diplomatic corps, the Count de Gruse lived with his wife in an elegant townhouse on Quai..